Engine Build Pre-Assembly (plastigauge rods, cam and timing set install)

 

I have already determined the connecting rod oil clearances in previous posts using the dial bore gauge.  In this post I used Plastigauge to verify those results. 

 

If you look closely in the picture below you can see the small strip of Plastigauge placed on the bearing.



I used a set of vice grips to secure the crankshaft from rotating while torquing down the rod caps.  If the crankshaft were to rotate while torquing the rod bolts the Plastigauge strip on the bearing could be ruined

 



 I did the Plastigauge checks on each rod pair at a time.  The picture below shows tourqing of the #1 and #2 rod caps

 

#1 piston installed without the compression rings for now.

 



 

 

Below shows the results of the Plastigauge.  It's hard to see in the picture, but I got readings of about .002" when compared to the chart on the Plastigauge package.  All 8 rods checked in with similar results.  Which is fairly close to the dial bore gauge results within .0005", so I am happy with that.



The other rods and pistons were installed and checked too

After the Plastigauge check was done on each pair of rods.  I then wiped the Plastigauge off the crankshaft, put some assembly lube on the bearings and re-installed them and torqued down again.

The crank was then spun around a couple times to make sure everything spun freely with no interferences

 

 





After all the rods were Plastigauged, I installed the crankshaft gear using a brass punch slowly working it onto the crank.

 



 

 

Next, I pulled the camshaft out of it's box and installed the cam gear.  I installed the cam gear at this time to make sliding the cam into the block easier. 

 



The cam bearing journals were lightly lubed with motor oil at this time and the cam was slid carefully into the block.

The cam was then spun a few times to verify that it spun freely.

The cam was then pulled out and lubed liberally with some cam and lifter assembly lube.

 The timing chain is then installed.  To do this the cam gear is removed, the chain is put around the gear.  The chain is then wrapped around the crank gear.  The cam gear can then be bolted back onto the camshaft.  The Timing dots need to be lined up before the cam gear is put on.

 

The picture below show the timing dots lined up in the 6 o'clock and the 12 o'clock positions

 

I then started getting the engine ready to degree the cam, I installed the cam degree wheel, magnetic base and dial indicator and a degree pointer made from a coat hanger.  My next post will be degreeing the camshaft.  This is done to verify that the comp cams manufactured this camshaft correctly and to the specifications that are included on the cam card that came with it.